2024 Joh Jos Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett

When people talk about benchmark Mosel Riesling, Joh. Jos. Prüm is the baseline. Under Dr Katharina Prüm, the house style remains fiercely guarded, prioritizing long-term cellar potential and unforced vineyard character. While the neighbouring Wehlener Sonnenuhr usually gets the headlines for its flamboyant personality, the weathered grey slate of Graacher Himmelreich consistently delivers a more immediate, mineral-driven style with incredible water-retention soils that keep the vines tracking smoothly.

The 2024 growing season was a classic, cooler vintage that played right into Prüm’s hands. Harvest kicked off at the start of October, yielding pristine, light-footed fruit perfectly suited to the traditional Kabinett style. Fermented naturally with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, this release captures a clean, effortless purity that trades heavy power for sheer charm and persistence.

Tasting note

Expect a touch of that classic, smoky sulfur reduction when you first crack the screwcap, which quickly parts to reveal a fine aromatic mix of crunchy white peach, nashi pear, and wild garden herbs. The palate is feather-light and filigreed, balancing its delicate grape sweetness with a long line of driving, crisp citrus and a crunchy, slatey mineral texture. A textbook, low-alcohol masterpiece that is delightfully accessible now but will evolve effortlessly for decades.

Critics' reviews

The 2024 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett is still a little flinty but tender green apple shows through. The palate stays on this beautifully bright side where fruitiness is juicy and tart, but its freshness is absolutely subsumed and intertwined with ripeness. Its beautiful lightness is grounded in slaty stone like a scented breeze. The 2024 is gorgeous. (Off-dry)

Anne Krebiehl MW